Tree 103
The first time I hiked into the Elder Grove at Paul Smith’s College in the Adirondack Park there was about three feet of snow on the ground. Being led by my friend Rich Hanlon, a pastor and Adirondack nature guide, the trek took only about a half hour, maybe less. We were off trail with just a GPS pinpoint to find our way. Tree 103, the tallest known tree in all of New York, and probably the second tallest east of the Mississippi, had fallen a few years before. Crashing to the ground, it must have shook the earth. I wonder if the college students just down the road had any idea the giant had come down.
One of the still-standing elders in the Elder Grove.
The second time I visited the Elder Grove was last Tuesday with Rich again and my son Micah. He’s hoping to go to Paul Smith’s and major in Parks and Conservation. This time, as we navigated off trail, there was only a little patchy snow still on the ground. Before we even got into the woods I saw something big swoop out of a tree and quickly glide out of site, the winged creature indicated to me that this would be a good day in the woods. Rich didn’t see it, I’m sure he would have known what it was right away. I thought owl at first, but that would be a bit strange in broad daylight. The three of us began walking on an old service road and there it was again, just 100 feet from where I first spotted it. This time we could tell it was a broad winged hawk, a migratory hawk that has just arrived back in the Adirondacks after staying in its winter home down south.
Lichen and moss on the root flare of a 400 year old white pine in the Elder Grove.
These woods are also where Rich first taught me how to call in a whole swarm of chickadees by imitating the noises they make when a predator is in site. The little birds swooped down like the big hawk, but not away from us, they came toward us. Little black-capped bandits ready to fight off any invader. Chickadees are one of my favorite birds, don’t let their cuteness fool you, they’re the bravest little birds out there.
Finding your way toward the Elder Grove is a bit of a strange experience. The forest doesn’t feel old as you make your way toward the pin on your GPS map. Its not until you’re nearly in the grove that you feel transported to a different time and place. Suddenly the forest floor feels thick with moss and fungal duff. The trees aren’t as big as redwoods, but they reach so high into the sky, towering over the red spruce and Frasier fur in the understory. Each old growth white pine is about the same age, just over 400 years old. They’re all reaching their maximum age limit, like a human hitting 99 or 100, these trees have lived long and healthy lives, but can’t live on forever. Most will fall in wind storms like 103. Several of the tallest trees have come down over the past five years. But not all of them.
Tree 103 in its final resting place, nourishing life as it is consumed into the forest floor.
We sat with the fallen giant and the other standing giants for what felt like a fairly short time. At first we talked, wandered and mused at the beauty of the moss and lichen. We climbed up in 103s ten foot tall stump and felt like tree gnomes. But then we scattered, without saying anything to each other, we just found a quiet sit spot and sat. Micah disappeared into the green depths of the woods. I didn’t know where he went, but knew he was experienced with spending time with me and trees. He’d find a spot to rest, pray, meditate or just let his mind wander like the high branches of the trees blowing in the wind. Sure enough I found him laying on the ground under a towering giant. Time seemed to stand still as we all experienced the perfection of this magical place.
Micah under one of the Elders.
After a while we hiked back out of the woods. We got to our car and realized more than three hours had passed. We’d spend far longer in the Elder Grove than any of us thought. Time well-spent with my son and our good friend and the ancient Elders of the forest.
I just learned today that Native peoples of the Adirondacks considered white pines to be their ancestors, their elders. No wonder this place is called the Elder Grove. It can be hard to go back to regular life, normal day to day stuff, knowing places like this exist, knowing living beings like the chickadees, broad winged hawk and ancient white pines are all ready to give us transcendent moments. But these moments can frame our lives, time with our loved ones, time with friends who “get it” and time with creation and creator. I only wish more places like this existed and were protected so more people, all people, could experience the wonder of the natural world.
Next fall Rich, myself and Megan Shelly will be leading a four day contemplative backpacking trip here in the Adirondacks. Anyone with good hiking ability is welcome to join us. We’ll learn the ecological ins and outs of these amazing mountains and valleys from Rich and we’ll all learn to connect more deeply with ourselves and the natural world. More details on the trip will be coming soon!
